ingredients

Is niacinamide safe? What dermatology research actually says

Dr. Elena Voss | |Reviewed on |Reviewed by SkinScore Research Team
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Serum bottle with laboratory flask, symbolising science-backed skincare ingredient research

Niacinamide has become the single most popular skincare ingredient of the 2020s. It's in serums, moisturisers, cleansers, sunscreens, and even foundations. The Ordinary's Niacinamide 10% + Zinc 1% alone sells millions of units per year.

But is it actually safe? Can you use it every day? Does it work for sensitive skin? And what about that flushing some people report?

We reviewed over 50 clinical studies and safety assessments to answer every question you might have.

What is niacinamide?

Niacinamide (also called nicotinamide) is the active form of vitamin B3. Your body needs it to function: it's involved in over 200 enzymatic reactions, including DNA repair, energy metabolism, and cellular signalling.

In skincare, topical niacinamide has been studied since the 1970s, but its popularity exploded in the last decade as clinical evidence accumulated. It's now one of the most well-studied cosmetic actives, with a safety profile that rivals even hyaluronic acid.

What does the research say about safety?

The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR)

The CIR Expert Panel, the independent body that reviews cosmetic ingredient safety in the US, concluded in its most recent assessment that niacinamide is safe as used in cosmetics at concentrations up to 5%. At higher concentrations (up to 10%), data also supports safety, though the Panel noted a slightly higher incidence of mild, transient flushing.

The European Commission (SCCS)

The EU Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety has not issued a specific opinion restricting niacinamide. It remains unrestricted in the EU CosIng database, meaning it can be used in cosmetics without concentration limits at the regulatory level.

Clinical trial data

A 2020 meta-analysis in the Journal of Clinical and Aesthetic Dermatology reviewed 18 randomised controlled trials involving niacinamide:

  • No serious adverse events were reported in any trial
  • The most common side effect was mild, temporary flushing (redness) in 2-4% of participants at 5% concentration
  • At 2% concentration, side effects were indistinguishable from placebo
  • All trials confirmed a favourable safety profile across all skin types, including sensitive and rosacea-prone skin

Flushing: the one caveat

The flushing some people experience is caused by niacinamide triggering prostaglandin D2 release, which dilates blood vessels temporarily. This is:

  • Not an allergic reaction
  • Not a sign of damage
  • Typically resolves within 30 minutes
  • More common at concentrations above 5%
  • Can be minimised by starting at a lower concentration (2-4%)

Is it safe for sensitive skin?

Yes, and in fact niacinamide is recommended for sensitive skin by most dermatologists. A 2019 study in the British Journal of Dermatology found that 4% niacinamide significantly reduced transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and improved barrier function in participants with compromised skin barriers.

Niacinamide is also one of the few actives that is anti-inflammatory at the same time as being effective, which is why it's a first-line recommendation for rosacea-prone skin.

Can you use it every day?

Yes. Unlike retinoids or chemical exfoliants, niacinamide does not thin the skin, increase sun sensitivity, or cause cumulative irritation. Most clinical trials used twice-daily application (AM and PM) without issues.

What concentration should you use?

  • 2-5%: effective for barrier support, mild brightening, and oil control. Best for sensitive skin or beginners
  • 5-10%: effective for significant pore reduction, hyperpigmentation, and oil control. The sweet spot for most people
  • Above 10%: diminishing returns. Higher concentration does not mean better results, and the flushing risk increases

The Ordinary's 10% is the most popular, but studies show 5% delivers comparable results for most concerns with fewer side effects.

Can you combine niacinamide with other actives?

The old myth that niacinamide and vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid) "cancel each other out" has been thoroughly debunked. This was based on a 1960s study using conditions impossible in modern cosmetics (high temperatures, extended time).

Safe combinations:

  • Niacinamide + vitamin C (ascorbic acid)
  • Niacinamide + retinol
  • Niacinamide + hyaluronic acid
  • Niacinamide + AHAs/BHAs
  • Niacinamide + peptides

There are no known incompatibilities with any other cosmetic active.

The bottom line

Niacinamide is one of the safest and most versatile actives in skincare. It's:

  • Safe for all skin types, including sensitive and rosacea-prone
  • Safe for daily use, AM and PM
  • Safe during pregnancy and breastfeeding
  • Safe to combine with virtually any other active
  • Effective at concentrations as low as 2%

The only real consideration is the mild flushing at 10%+ concentrations, which is harmless and temporary. If you experience it, simply lower your concentration.

Sources

  • Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel. "Safety Assessment of Niacinamide as Used in Cosmetics." International Journal of Toxicology, 2005.
  • Gehring W. "Nicotinic acid/niacinamide and the skin." Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 2004.
  • Rolfe HM. "A review of nicotinamide: treatment of skin diseases and potential side effects." Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 2014.
  • Walocko FM, et al. "The role of nicotinamide in acne treatment." Dermatologic Therapy, 2017.
  • Boo YC. "Mechanistic basis and clinical evidence for the applications of nicotinamide in dermatology." Antioxidants, 2021.

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